On the water in Corsica – the east coast
A decision we came to regret
The next morning, we left Solenzana for the marina in Bastia – strangely (or not as it turned out), we were the only boat to leave. I had emailed the Bastia marina to reserve a berth but had not heard back. This was what had often happened with other marinas and had not been a problem before – we always got a berth. In this particular instance though, it would have been very smart to have had a confirmed berth in Bastia, or in the only two other marinas north of Solenzara, before leaving a perfectly fine marina given the forecasted conditions.
Our perfectly fine berth in Solenzana where, in hindsight, we should have stayed.
These conditions included one gale warning from the south/southeast from 1300-1900, changing into another gale warning from the northwest for the dark hours of the next morning. Under these conditions, anchoring anywhere along the east coast would be completely untenable and outright dangerous.
We decided that we could arrive in Bastia before the first gale would settle in, and then we would be fine for the second gale (1st stupid decision). So off we went, sails up and Yuma’s bow pointing north. After a few hours, the wind picked up a bit, so we put two reefs in the main. The wind increased a bit more, so we put two reefs in the jib.
While not as spectacular as the west coast, the east coast still has beautiful scenery.
Meanwhile the French Météo had started to broadcast ‘Securité’ messages on the VHF, in French and English!, about the two upcoming gales. By then, we had another 5nm to the marina of Taverna and another 25nm to Bastia. ‘We’re going fast (…), let’s go to Bastia’, we agreed (2nd stupid decision).
No space for us
By 1900, we were getting close to Bastia but we still had not received a confirmation for a berth from the marina. We decided to give them a call, and, oh dear, they said were full… Oopla! Now what? Never fear, there are two marinas in Bastia, but, the second one was also full. This was getting a bit uncomfortable…
When the conditions were still fine.
How about the main port? Surely, they would let us in under these conditions with formal warnings being broadcast? But no, they were also full (strangely, before saying so they checked whether we were French or not…). Another marina a few hours further north was also full, and Taverna was a long way south, straight into the first gale. And to think we could have sat comfortably in Solenzara, enjoying our dinner and ice cream at a Restaurant/Glacerie!
An uncomfortable night
What to do? It was getting dark and despite being well past its forecasted duration, the SW gale was still going strong with sustained winds between 30-35kn and big steep waves to go with it. We tried to heave to (this is essentially a way of parking a boat at sea), but after a while decided that this was not working, being on a lee shore and amongst a few anchored cargo ships. In the distance we could see a few Italian islands (Elba, amongst a few others) where we could possibly have anchored, except we did not have the charts for them nor permission to enter those waters.
Wind speeds and peak gusts measured on land in Bastia. Guess which date we sailed up north (yep, September 1st).
Our options were shrinking; it was either sail into the storm or motor into it. Eventually, we opted for the easiest option and turned the engine on, pointed the bow into the wind and waves, and suffered the consequences of our stupid decisions.
The drop in windspeed, promised for around 1900, did not arrive until 2400. So, we spent a long and uncomfortable night steering Yuma up and down steep wind waves making just a knot or two headway (this being the most comfortable), all the while getting soaked by spray (that being not so comfortable). And then the next gale came through.
A welcoming marina with great food
Daylight finally came around, and overnight we had slowly made our way south and were close to the marina at Taverna. Question was, did they have a spot for us? As soon as their office opened at 0800, we gave them a call, and after a few calls and emails, they confirmed they had a place. At 11.15, we were tied up inside, happy to be out of the wind and away from the swell, and ready for a hot shower and some rest!
After the weather had calmed down again.
And not only did Taverna provide us with a welcome shelter, the local restaurant served the best meals we had in Corsica: lasagna (following Grandma’s recipe and made in a wood oven) and tagiatella. Realising these are Italian and not French dishes, we decided that next time we’ll go cruising in Italy.
Cristina would definitely agree that pastas are italians, and that you should sail to Sicilia next time (and I second her). Happy that found a harbour my fiends. We have good pastas in Paris too, and nice Italian restaurant-glaceries there too (;-)
Another reason to come and visit you then!
Can’t beat a good pasta feed!
It is a good option isn’t it.